Recently, São Paulo has become a gastronomic capital of the world. This is due, most likely, to the quantity and variety of immigration to the city, which continually reinvents itself. However, many restaurants adhere to values determined by the market, increasingly becoming another type of business: they expand as franchises, losing their original relationship with the community. The Guía San Pablo reclaims the restaurant as a space of meeting and memory, having followed for several years the establishments—many of them run by immigrants—that have risen up along the outskirts of the city’s center. Small establishments, with no advertising, offering well-priced, excellent food and an intimate relationship between clients and owners, these spaces clearly contrast with the guides, awards, and stars that today dominate the local and global gastronomic scene. Moreover, among the varied attempts to bring together food and art, there is also the phenomenon of museum restaurants. The Guía San Pablo, in turn, finds in this new work an alternative: to create a “pirated” museum restaurant. Based on prior research, the piece brings together dishes from differing restaurants, a curatorial act that combines them in a “self-service” array of flavors and histories that together create an unexpected Paulistano restaurant.
Guía San Pablo: Nicolás Linares, Pablo Saborido, Fabio Riff, Fabrizio Lenci, Rodrigo Oliveira and Thomas Frenk